I wrote a couple of kayak and stroll of the mountain Slioch within the Scottish Highlands within the June 2023 version of The Scots Journal. When you loved the article you should buy future magazines or order a subscription.

Slioch by way of Loch Maree

When returning to a mountain, I at all times choose to discover a new path to the summit. However Slioch, a dramatically rugged peak in Wester Ross, north-west Scotland, has few choices for the strategy.

The 981m peak that rises above picturesque Loch Maree has steep crags on most sides, other than essentially the most generally hiked ascent by way of Coire na Sleaghaich to the south-east.

Besides, the map did reveal an alternative choice: To cross the loch to achieve the mountain. 

It turned out to be a superb thought – and for 2 causes. First, the watery route would keep away from the necessity to stroll a notoriously boggy 4km riverside path from Incheril, close to the village of Kinlochewe. Second, the views of Slioch had been instantly transfixing as my husband Gordon and I pushed our kayaks into Loch Maree.

The paddle from the southern shore, simply off the principle A832, to the northern shore is lower than 1km and, trying up from our kayaks, the mountain appeared intimidatingly steep, craggy and dramatic.

It’s no surprise Slioch is so typically featured in photographic shows of Scotland, from image postcards and greeting playing cards to calendars.

An earlier forecast for calm climate appeared to have been little optimistic and an easterly wind, blustery at instances, brought about Gordon and I to meander somewhat than paddling a straight-line course throughout the loch. 

It mattered not, although, as a result of we had been certain our route could be a lot sooner than strolling to Slioch and, in any case, it was a thrill to be kayaking to the bottom of a mountain. 

From kayak to strolling

Reaching the shallow waters near the northern shore, we stepped out of our boats, carried them to a protected place and swapped kayak drysuits and buoyancy aids for strolling gear. Every thing had remained dry due to sealed hatches within the kayaks. 

We had been grateful for a faint path that took us from the shore, by way of a patchwork of small bushes, gorse, heather and grassy tussocks in the direction of the principle observe. We joined it earlier than a bridge over Abhainn an Fhasaigh, a river that tumbles into Loch Maree. 

At a junction, we turned proper to start the climb of Slioch. At first the ascent was pretty light, however then turned steeper because it travelled in the direction of Gleann Biannasdail. At one other junction, we walked left, though the opposite path trying tempting. It headed up the facet of  Abhainn an Fhasaigh in the direction of a waterfall.

Whereas checking the map, I seen the route climbed to Lochan Fada, the place one other path descended in neighbouring Gleann na Muice. If a summit had not been the day’s focus, I might have fortunately explored this fashion. 

Nonetheless, Slioch was one among Gordon’s final 30 Munros to bag in his second spherical of the 282 Scottish mountains with a top of greater than 914.4m (3000ft) – and so he was to not be persuaded to roam anyplace else.

Our route from 200m top in the direction of a col turned extra apparent. This can be a common mountain and a path has worn within the grass and rocks in order that we not often wanted to test our location. 

We had been additionally lucky with clear views at this stage and, trying again, we might see the ragged define of Loch Maree, with the Beinn Eighe mountain vary behind, turning into slowly smaller and smaller. 

The route is sort of always – and testingly – uphill and likewise steep for stretches. We had been grateful to achieve a extra gradual incline after rounding the bottom of a decrease summit, Sgùrr Dubh and strolling into the grass bowl of Coire na Sleaghaich, though it was short-lived and we had been quickly confronted with one other rocky incline. 

At a lochan – truly one among two small lochs – we sat on a big boulder for a relaxation in welcome sunshine and refuelled on snacks. It was tough to tear ourselves from the spectacular view over the loch and west in the direction of extra rugged mountain peaks.

Past the lochans the route continued on a steep and eroded path, first over rocks after which on grass. For some time, the path got here and went with some elements fading right into a moist and soggy floor and this required extra focus to remain on observe. 

Then, from round 750m elevation, we discovered ourselves in thick mist. The clouds that had been distant earlier on had grown nearer till they shrouded the summit of Slioch. 

Nonetheless, whereas disappointing to have our view obscured, we had been instantly offered with a Brocken spectre and we marvelled on the magnified shadow of ourselves forged in mid-air on clouds and in a magical bow of sunshine. 

A brief descent, adopted by yet one more climb took us to a trig level, however we knew from our earlier hike of Slicoh that this was not the very best level. Though mist prevented us seeing the true summit, we recalled it was solely a brief stroll to the cairn on the northern peak. 

Brilliantly, the clouds began to disperse and we had been handled to an impressive vista south, west and north, over the mountains of Torridon, in addition to the Fisherfield and Letterewe forests. Loch Maree and the various islands unfold out under us and additional afield we might see the west coast, an enormous sea and the define of the islands of the Hebrides.

A circuit to absorb a Munro prime

There was a selection on the prime of Slioch merely to return the identical route again to the beginning however I used to be eager to bag one other excessive summit additional east. A ridge – An t-Aon Cheum – offered an undulating route, slim at instances, to achieve Sgùrr an Tuill Bhain , which at 933m is Munro top however categorized as a Munro High. There are 277 such subsidiary Munro summits listed in Scotland.

With the cloud coming and going, Gordon and I loved the drama of instantly seeing – after which not seeing – the mountainous panorama.

Descending southeast on the northern fringe of Coire na Sleaghaich, we looked for the trail that will return us to the shore of Loch Maree. At this level, we additionally discovered ourselves strolling alongside one other hiker.

He informed us how sturdy winds the day earlier than had compelled him to retreat from his climb to Slioch. As we speak, he had loved his second – and profitable – try however he was not trying ahead to the boggy path again to the beginning.

He was about to stroll that part for the fourth time in two days. As a lot as we tried, Gordon and I discovered it laborious to not sound smug after we informed him of our loch paddle.

Return kayak of Loch Maree

Leaving the walker simply after the bridge over Abhainn an Fhasaigh, we made the brief return stroll to our kayaks and, in reverse, swapped mountain climbing apparel for kayak garments and security gear.

A hoped for tailwind that ought to have carried us swiftly again to our begin level didn’t materialise and as an alternative we felt a stiff westerly breeze. It made the paddle to the southern shore extra of a problem however, effectively, you guessed it, significantly extra nice than a protracted soggy stroll on the finish of a day. 

Reality: Slioch is translated from the Gaelic phrase “sleagh”, which suggests “the spear”. The mountain form is extra apparent when considered from Lochan Fada to the north-east.

Route particulars: 

Begin and end:  Automobile park for Coille na Glas Letire Trails, off the Au832, north-west of Kinlochewe.

Distance: 14km

Elevation acquire: 1084m.

OS map: Explorer 435.

Package required:

Kayak 

Paddle

Spraydeck

Buoyancy help

Cagoule or drysuit

Strolling rucksack

Strolling garments

Waterproof jacket and trousers

Spare insulated jacket 

Mountain climbing boots

Gloves and headwear

Meals and water

Map and compass

Emergency blanket or bivvy bag

Cell phone